Problem with signal light replacements.....

[scharfg]

Hey folks.

I changed my rear signal lights out (previous owner has installed small high intensity ones, not sure of bulb wattage) as the left one was broken.

They are the LED ones to try and reduce power draw so I can use heated grips. The left one went fine other than I did not have to install the flash limiter do hickey. The LED ones are suppose to flash very fast (like a burnt out bulb) given they draw so little power but there was no apparent change in the flash rate on mine.

The right one was a different story. They flashed normal before I started. Then after I replaced the rear one and tried itthe front turn signal (also retro fitted with the smaller high intensity bulb/casing) would barely come on and would not flash at all. The newly installed rear signal light would not come on at idle speed.

I could only get them to flash on the right side (slowly) by increasing the revs to above ~2000.

I seem to have had the reverse effect of what I was looking for (power savings).

What's happening....? UGH! :X

[CrazyD2.0]

You need to replace the flasher for one rated for use with LED's. The LED's don't draw enough current to trip the pole on regular flashers. An alternative is to install a resistor into the wiring, which would basically create the same effect of having incadescent bulbs (but try an LED flasher first!)

[Norm]

Here's a post I just made to a similar question. Hope it is in context here.


The common electronic flashers are two pin such as Tridon HD12 (fits the KLR stock flasher plug) or three pin such as Tridon HD13. The third pin on the HD13 is intended for an indicator lamp. This flasher could be wired into the KLR to allow the dash indicator bulb to function if LEDs are used for signals.

As I stated in the previous post, the KLR's dash indicator lamp is of relatively small size as compared to the signal bulbs. This allows the indicator bulb to ground through the two indicator bulbs which are in parallel for each side. Because the indicator is so small, the signal bulbs will allow sufficient current flow to ground without lighting the signal bulbs on the unused side.

When the signal is operated in one direction, the signal lamps are each connected to the power from the signal switch and to the bike's common ground(the bike's frame) which leads to the battery negative. (Using the conventional theory) Current flows from the battery through the main fuse, through the white wire to the ignition switch, through the ignition switch to the brown wire, through the signal flasher (called the signal light relay by Kawasaki), to another colour wire (can't remember off hand), to the signal switch, through the signal switch to the selected side turn signal wire, and to the junction which feeds the dash indicator/front signal bulb/rear signal bulb.

Current flows through the front signal bulb to the Black/Yellow (common ground/negative circuit) wire to the battery negative. The current flow is sufficient to heat the signal light bulb filaments to white temperature emitting light. The current flow is also sufficient to heat the signal flasher's bi-metal strip causing the signal flasher to open the circuit stopping the current flow.

At this time, with current flow stopped, the signal lights go out and the signal flasher's bi-metal strip cools so that the circuit is closed and current flow again passes through the signal bulbs. This cycling on/off continues as long as the signal switch is on.

Power also flows from the junction to the dash indicator bulb, passes through the indicator bulb to the junction in the other side's signal wiring. The relatively small current flow through the dash indicator bulb divides between the wires leading to the front and rear signal bulbs and makes its way to ground (negative) through the two bulbs to the common ground (Black/Yellow) wire.

LED lights conduct a relatively tiny current flow as compared to the signal bulbs or the indicator bulb. This usually has two effects when these lights are subsituted for the stock incandescent signal bulbs.

1) The current flow is often insufficient to heat the signal flasher's bi-metal strip enough to cause the flasher to open the circuit so there is no flashing.

2) The LED's will often not conduct sufficient current to allow the dash indicator bulb to be grounded through the un-used signal side so the dash indicator will not light.

Sometimes this can be addressed in part by replacing the stock flasher with an electronic flasher such as a Tridon HD12. These electronic flashers will sometimes function with a pair of LED signal lights.

What sometimes happens is that the signal flasher will not flash, or the signal flasher will not flash consistantly, or the signals will flash on both sides regardless of which side the signal switch is operating.

Why? Not enough load to allow the flasher to function, not always enough load, enough current flow through the dash indicator light will operate the LEDs on the unengaged side, respectively.

*Note: Make sure that you use signal bulbs/lights which are of sufficient light output/lens configuration to be legal under DOT. If you chose not to do so (obviously) there may be ticket or insurance consequences....

If the signals operate with your electronic flasher and LEDs it may be a advantage to remove the dash indicator bulb and retry before proceeding. If the lights still function to your satisfaction, the dash indicator bulb can be rewired to operate by either using a pair of diodes (IMO the hard way) or by connecting one side of the dash indicator bulb socket's wiring to the third pinon an electronic flasher (Tridon HD13) and grounding the other side of the dash indicator socket wiring.

Now you may find that the system has become flaky and won't flash reliably so additional load in the form of some resistance to ground will be needed.

See why I said I didn't want to go into this..... (VBG)

Some have easy success. Others move to using language....

HIH

Norm