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Hamon
06-04-2009, 06:44 AM
This trip was basically a pre-run to what is going to be a much longer ride at the end of the month. Last summer, after my ride to Ontario, I had started planning this summer's trip: a ride to Inuvik, NWT, via the Dempster Highway (duh, no other way to get there). Earlier this year, I had mentioned to my dad that if he'd like to come too, he was welcome to. He'd recently bought a DRZ400, and was strongly considering it.

The Inuvik trip I had mapped out called for long days for the first few to get some mileage under us and enjoy the Yukon a bit more. My dad was quite concerned that he and the DRZ would not be up for this, so we started figuring out the best ways to "Adventurize" the bike. Other than offroad protection (handguards, rad guards, case protectors), this is what was modified:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2111.jpg

-the seat: when he purchased the bike, it came witha Suzuki gel seat. This is fine for short days, but does not cut it for the longer ones. I had heard of "Sweetcheeks" from a thread on ADVrider, and thought that it would be the ticket. Basically, it's a cover that goes over the seat that fits two 2L pop bottles, one on either side, to give your butt a wider platform to sit on. This was coupled with a bit of sleeping mat foam in the middle, and an Alaska Leather dualsport buttpad to top it all off.

-wind protection: we all know that long highway jaunts sure tend to blow a person around, which adds a significant amount of fatigue. I had a bar-mount windshield kicking around from my trip across to Ontario that an ADVer had given me. It needed some mounts made, but my dad put a system together that gave him solid, yet adjustable, wind protection

-the tank: range was a large issue, so a Clarke 15L tank was fitted to extend range. This, along with 3x1L oil bottles full of fuel, should give him the range he needs for the longest section, between the junction for the Dempster and Eagle Plains, ~380Km.

-luggage: the bike was purchased with a nice set of racks on top and sides for carrying soft bags. My dad had old soft bags from his earlier days of riding that he rigged to fit the sides, purchased dry bags for his camping gear, and fitted a cheap pair of Princess Auto ATV tank panniers to the front for fluids. He's also got an aluminum tool tube mounted on the non-exhaust side. With all this, the little mule can carry all we need to camp/cook out on the trip. A Wolfman Enduro tankbag rounded everything out.

So, after a few months of talking, ordering, and tinkering, it was time to see how the luggage all worked. My KLR was pretty much ready to roll: from prior camping trips, I had gotten it set up to carry all I would need. I was also using an Alaska Leather buttpad over my stock seat to give that extra comfort.

The night before was spent tightening straps, lubing/adjusting the chain, checking the oil, and trying to remember if we forgot anything.

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The next morning, bright and (not really that) early, there wasn't anything left to do but leave.

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The first day was as follows:

http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=agassiz+bc&daddr=50.3033 76,-121.508789+to:jasper+ab&hl=en&geocode=&mra=dpe&mrc r=0&mrsp=1&sz=6&via=1&sll=51.10698,-119.92878&sspn=6.995292,19.6875&ie=UTF8&z=6

We carried on upwards along the Fraser, then Thompson River, enjoying the sights, the twisties, and the odd bulk hauler bringing Vancouver's garbage up to Cache Creek.

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The DRZ was ticking along just dandy, with no complaints from the rider, my dad.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2033.jpg

Coffee in Savona, and it was onward to Kamloops.

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My dad wanted to run the Clarke tank completely dry at some point in time to figure out the actual range he would have at extended highway rpms. We decided the best time to do it was at the beginning of the trip, and estimated that Kamloops would be the probable location of dry-running at approximately 300km. At 275km, he hit reserve, I took up the rear, and kept an eye on his 6 o'clock for the inevitable time of stalling out.

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We carried on the freeway through Kamloops, missed our turn to take us north to Jasper, which worked out perfectly. Not 500m past the exit that would have taken us onto an overpass, the DRZ putted out, about 100m from a Shell station. A bit of pushing, and we knew how much range it had.

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This was at low elevation, with a reasonably heavy load, hills, and sustained 100km/h on stock gearing. He made it 306km before it ticked out completely.

With that information in hand, we headed north on the Yellowhead. Through McLure/Barriere, the site of forest fires a few years back, and onward to lunch at Little Fort.

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As we sat and ate lunch, we noticed we weren't the only ones out for a two-wheeled adventure.

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Slurpee on a scooter. That's the life right there.

Onward and Northward we carried, through some relatively uninspiring landscape (rocks and trees and water), as we drew ever nearer the Rockies.

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A KLR popped out in front of me from a side-road, carried on the highway for a few meters, then popped back off onto another side road. It was red, and as it rode alongside the highway, I could see it had one of Ian's fairings too. I had to turn around and get a photo.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2065.jpg

It was an original XS fairing, retaining the square headlight of the stock KLR.

At this point, we decided to switch bikes, so I could see if the lack of complaint from the old man was due to his ridiculous amount of fortitude, or whether the bike was simply set up well for long-distance travel.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2067.jpg

Turns out it was the latter. That bike felt, dare I say, more comfortable than my KLR. The wind protection was fantastic, and the seat was luxurious. The power it had, fully loaded, at highway speeds was, although not heart-stoppingly badass, quite good, with extra for any passing that had to take place.

As I hopped back on the KLR, the Rockies drew closer, as I contemplated how excellent that little DRZ was and battled buffeting from increasing side-winds.

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As we turned onto Highway 16, Mt. Robson loomed before us, beckoning us into the embrace of rugged, snow-capped beauty.

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Eastward we carried, along high-altitude lakes, taking in scenic mountain vistas, and generally having a fantastic time.

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Finally, we made it. Alberta. The promised land. You could smell the beef a rustlin', the oil a pumpin', and the drivers a speedin'.

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So ended our first day. We set up camp anddebriefed on what the day had brought.

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At a relaxed pace with lots of breaks, we had made it there by 7:30pm (we stayed on Pacific time)after leaving at 7am. Total mileage for the day landed at 755km. We were tired, but not exhausted. The adventurized DRZ burned no oil, led to no monkey butt, and encouraged another day of excellent riding when the sun returned. I was doing just dandy as well, with the KLR running strong (as strong as KLRs do), and me feeling as ready as my dad for another day.

We went to bed at a little over 1000m, with a slight rain pattering on our tents, and the cold readily apparent. The Icefields Parkway waited for our arrival in the morning.

Hamon
06-04-2009, 09:30 AM
Day two's route was as follows:

http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=jasper,+ab&daddr=51.9781 13,-116.762695+to:Marble+Canyon+3,+Thompson-Nicola+Regional+District,+British+Columbia&hl=en&g eocode=%3B%3BFTRlBwMdOba_-A&mra=dpe&mrcr=0&mrsp=1&sz=7&via=1&sll=51.842566 ,-119.871826&sspn=3.441385,9.84375&ie=UTF8&z=7

We woke up when we woke up, to a chilly morning at around 3 degrees. I had picked up a new sleeping bag just prior to the trip, and this was the first night in it. The bag performed admirably, keeping me toasty warm until I hauled my carcass out of it to face the cold reality of the morning.

We cooked up some breakfast, me on my newfangled butane/propane mix stove, while Dad broke out his trusty Optimus to cook (and burn a little) himself some porridge.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2107.jpg

At the park, they had bear lockers where we were to stow our food overnight, supposedly so the bears in search of food wouldn't eat campers. Bad publicity, or something of the sort..

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2114.jpg

The park attendant (very cute, btw, as were most of the National Park attendants we saw) must have had a thing against motorcycles, or KLRs, or something. Look at how close she put us to the bear bait.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2115.jpg

In any case, no bears ate us, and it was time to hit the road. The Icefields Parkway beckoned.

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And the Icefields Parkway delivered.

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Now, the elevation gets pretty high on this stretch of road. It was morning, and things were chilly. I didn't take any on-the-fly shots due to this. I had my heavy gloves on which did not permit camera dexterity.

So, we settled on taking pictures from pee break,

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2124.jpg

to pee break.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2126.jpg

It was really hard to capture the experience of it all in pictures. We sure felt small amid all the gigantic mountains.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2130.jpg

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We tried, however, to pass ourselves off as kings.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2134.jpg

After a great downhill section and a giant full 180 degree corner, we found ourselves in yet another valley, this time U-shaped from glacier activity.

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After wading our way through the tourists taking pictures of bighorn sheep, we, tourists as well, found our own ways to enjoy the scenery.

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Sure feels good to take a leak when you're looking at this:

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We filled up in Lake Louise, paid exorbitant tourist prices for crappy coffee, and started our return voyage west.

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http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2160.jpg

^Sure feels like an early apex. Woops!

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2164.jpg

After lunch in Revelstoke, we carried further west into a now-descending sun. In Salmon Arm, we picked up earplugs to try them out and I picked up a neck-cooling gidget that promised a more comfortable ride.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2177.jpg

Gidget:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2178.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2182.jpg

I learned that earplugs and a long day make me sleepy, and that the neck-cooling gidget worked alright, although it used water-absorbing crystals that eventually felt a little like a dog turd. Still, it worked, and onward we pressed.

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Met a Harley rider out from Wisconsin named Bob Bain. Friendly fella. He was carrying everything from camping gear to a microwave on that thing.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2188.jpg

And we began chasing the sun, making it past Kamloops, through to Cache Creek, and onward to Highway 99, where we camped at Marble Canyon between Cache Creek and Lillooet.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2192.jpg

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The day ended in a Canadian fashion, with a mosquito or two being slapped, and the call of a loon emanating from the nearby lake.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2202.jpg

Day done, we ended with about 790km on the odometer, feeling a little more tired than the evening prior. Bed time came gracefully.

franhoser
06-04-2009, 06:46 PM
Nice ride Travis. I'm planning on doing Inuvik next year if all goes according to plan. I look foward to your report on that.

ktmken
06-04-2009, 07:42 PM
Nice trip report :)

Keep it up

KTMKen

buddy98
06-04-2009, 07:50 PM
Nice trip report,you had me wishing i could do that with my ole man,long passed now. Makes you think,life is to short and go out and enjoy what nature has provided,excellent report.

Hamon
06-04-2009, 08:46 PM
One more day.. Gonna start on it now.

sparklr
06-04-2009, 09:05 PM
Awesome ride and report, and I ditto Buddy's post.

:clap::hb:

wjm
06-04-2009, 09:18 PM
Nice ride Travis. Pictures and notes are well done.



Bill

Hamon
06-04-2009, 09:33 PM
Day 3 began like many other days do. The sun rose, and we woke soon after. Because we had made such good time the first two days, this one was meant to be a relaxed day, enjoying the Duffy Lake Road, followed by the shortcut down past Lillooet Lake, connecting with the Harrison West FSR.

We rustled up camp, ate some breakky,

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and Dad adjusted his chain. He'd taken out a link prior to the trip just so he wouldn't have to put a new chain on this much before the big trip to Inuvik. You'd almost think he was a cheap-ass KLR rider, or at least related to one.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2209.jpg

Lazily, we hopped on the bikes and enjoyed the twisties towards Lillooet. Got stuck behind a school bus in the tight sections, but really admired the skill with which the driver got that behemoth through those corners.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2213.jpg

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Coffee in Lillooet, followed by gas at Lightfoot Gas. We weren't the only dualsports there. A 1200GS was just leaving, as was an XR650R (I think it was an R).

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Onward and forward we pressed, along the Duffy Lake Road. What a road to travel on a bike. Twisties galore.

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As we rode, we noticed quite the proliferation of old cars heading east. We figured it was rich folk out for the day. We'd learn more about their deal later.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2241.jpg

But first, Duffy Lake.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2245.jpg

We carried on to the next break, just before the descent towards Lillooet Lake, and found more old cars. Turns out a large Bentley association was making a tour of BC, heading up the Icefields Parkway, with a final destination of Alaska. They'd been planning this for several years, and the old cars had been shipped from all around the world to BC for the epic event. Countries we saw represented were New Zealand, Austria, Switzerland, and the UK. The sound that these old engines made was enough to make me grin like a little boy. Pure motor porn.

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This New Zealand couple was driving a 1929 Bentley.

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Kevin, one of the support vehicle drivers, mentioned that it was going to be a bit of an ordeal. Something about the owners being as tempermental as the cars they drove.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2254.jpg

Anyway, with smiles on our faces, we headed down the hairpins on the west end of the Duffy Lake Road, breathing deep the odor of burnt brake pads and overheating vintage cars.

Finally, we hit gravel.

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I was enjoying my time.

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And my dad was too. It was hot, but only when we stopped. If we were moving, it was only too warm.

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Lunch time loomed, and we decided to check out the Skookumchuk Hot Springs to rinse some of the grime off our bodies and out of our hair, find a spot to cook up some grub, and basically relax.

The hot springs were fantastic, refreshing, and clean. Jeff, the maintenance fella up there during the week, had all kinds of information to share about the area.

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A sasquatch stole my dad's riding boots,

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But I was having way too good a time to get 'em back.

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I swore I would never do as the squids do: riding with a helmet, shorts, and flip-flops, but alas, I succumbed. Don't tell mom.

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We fired up the Optimus and cooked some lunch, with the help of a trusty knife of course. I hear House of Knives carries all kinds of knives for every need.. The guy who runs the Langley and Abbotsford ones is a bit of a dink though.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/1May31-June2282.jpg

You'll note my dad wrestled the boots back from the pesky sasquatch.

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Life don't get much better.

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Finally, we made it. West Harrison FSR. It said closed, but I've heard too many reports already this year of folks coming through. I think they were just too lazy to take the sign down.

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The road was nice, a good uphill battle, slightly rocky, and enough challenge to keep us alert on our heavily loaded bikes. The water crossings made for good photo ops.

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http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2011.jpg

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Life was grand. The views were excellent, and things couldn't get much better.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2015.jpg

They could get worse, however.

As I made my way up another steep incline, a rogue boulder leapt into my path, knocking my front tire one way, causing my rear to loop and point me into the bushes. I came to a stop upright, but as the bike started leaning downhill, I realized I had no place to put my foot.

Graceful like a gazelle, I leapt off, landing on my leg and opting to use my hands instead of my Shoei to cushion my upper body.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2017.jpg

Ain't nothing to do now but take pictures.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2018.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2019.jpg

Well, there wasn't any way to get the pig back up without taking off some gear, so the quick-release feature was used on the available Caribou case, and we got the bike upright and up to a level area to assess the damage. Dad, who helped push the bike up, bore the brunt of some of my frustration, as it felt like he was trying to push the bike back over on me. The stress of the situation got to me. I felt bad after.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2020.jpg

As far as damage goes, there was none. The bike fired up immediately, and looked no worse for wear. Far better than the truck we parked beside.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2022.jpg

Some tires, a bit of chrome polish, and it'd buff right out, I'm sure.

Meanwhile, the old man, who had parked his bike at the bottom of the incline, made the same section look easy. He didn't have boulders leaping at him either though.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2025.jpg

Slightly spent, we stopped near the shore for a quick break, a soak of the t-shirt, and a drink of tepid water.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2026.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2028.jpg

Dad was enjoying his time.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2029.jpg

When we got to the smooth gravel, the picture taking declined. I just wanted to make some good time and get home at a reasonable hour.

I did, however, have to stop for a grouse. These stupid birds sure don't like to move. As she finally headed to the bushes, I saw that she had young with her. Not appreciating my presence, she put on quite the intimidating show.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2030.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2031.jpg

Onward and southward we carried.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2032.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2035.jpg

At the end of the gravel, I stopped to take a picture of the glory.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2036.jpg

Dad decided it was a good time to celebrate as well. He did one of those cool sideways skids that I tend to do every so often as well. He also highsided it as I've been known to do on occasion. Like father, like son.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2038.jpg

His foot was trapped.. Hehe!

Anyway, we hopped on the Lougheed, headed into Agassiz, and revelled in the comfort of familiar stomping grounds.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2043.jpg

We were home. 3 days of solid riding and a healthy dose of experience under our belts, we knew that we now were ready to tackle the Dempster.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/Wombatulus/Motorbikin/Jasper/2May31-June2046.jpg

That's a wrap. Stay tuned for the big report in a month and a half.

Travis

Buckethead
06-04-2009, 09:47 PM
Well done, Amigo.
You must make your Dad proud.

old trials guy
06-05-2009, 09:28 AM
:tup::tup:

Two thumbs up! One of the best trip reports I have read. Good luck on the Dempster adventure. Remember to keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.

otg

miller
06-05-2009, 10:50 AM
great report and pix!

It goes to show that if you spend the time planning and prepping your rig for a big trip, you end up having a perfect, incident-free trip. Glad you guys had a blast and good luck on your future trips!!:hb:

Hamon
06-05-2009, 04:49 PM
old trials guy wrote:
:tup::tup:

Two thumbs up! One of the best trip reports I have read. Good luck on the Dempster adventure. Remember to keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.

otg



Once I'm done with the Dempster (or the Dempster's done with me), there probably won't be a shiny side.

Thanks for the comments!

Travis

sueandal
06-05-2009, 07:24 PM
:hb:coooool:hb:

magnataan
06-24-2009, 12:15 PM
A great read - thanks!

I had my GS on its side right about the same place you did on West Harrison. Yuck! A hateful spot that is.