View Full Version : f up the tire change
08-06-2009, 08:29 PM
I don't know what I did but I think I broke the bead wall at one location. Is that possible. This the fifth tire I put on now so i thought I knew what I was doing but I put ona new set of pirelli MT21 rear.
Getting the last bead to over the rim was getting hard so I gave it a little extra muscle and snap. I thought I broke the rim initially but then i saw nothing. after that the tire went on real easy almost too easy. Blew it up and saw a big bulge where I heard the snapping sound earlier. Mounted it and rode it to see if it's rideble but it wobbles too much.
Has this happened to anyone before? The only difference here was that it was a skinnier tire than I normally run. I got for cheap last year but the size was smaller. It's a 120/90/18 to go on a 2.5 rim. I don't think that was the problem.
08-06-2009, 08:52 PM
Sounds like you broke the cord, the metal around the bead. Anytime your using too much muscle your technique is wrong. But sounds like you already know.
I went through a couple tires and many popped tubes before I dialed in changing tires. I found a online instuctional video and memorized it. I think it was from transworld motocross.
you have a tire stand and bead buddy?
old trials guy
08-06-2009, 10:54 PM
And if anyone needs a new rear tire its Franhoser. :)
Sorry to hear you broke the bead wire, that means its toast unfortunately.
I use Hozan 10" tire irons and they are sufficient length for any tire. I don't have any other special tools other than a bench vise for breaking beads on tubeless trials tires. I just use a garbage can or 5 gallon pail for a tire stand because I am cheap and that works fine for me. Soapy water and talc are essentialif youare replacing a tire. Apply talcum powder to the tube and inside the tire prior to installation.
The secret is to "knit" the tire on the rim taking small steps as you get near the end. Make sure the installed portion has not crept up onto the bead on both sides until you have the tire fully installed. This is a common problem. Take about 2" increments and try to lever only to about 90 degrees to the rim, just enough for the tire to slip over the rim, relax it a bit and insert the other lever. Reapply pressure to the levers, one at a time. All going well you will minimize the potential of pinching a tube as you never really lever past about 90 degrees.
Often you end up with a couple of inches of tire and no way to get a lever betwen the rim and tire. Just apply a little more soapy water and just muscle the last bit on by hand or apply the large rubber mallet. I usually inflate until the bead seats and then deflate and reinflate again to make sure the tire has settled well on the rim.
You are welcome to drop by with your wheel and tire if you want a hand.
08-07-2009, 06:50 AM
Sorry to hear about the tire:gaah:
There are a couple of good threads here about tire changing.
I have changed way too many tires and have learned everything the hard way:censored:I always give the same advice
Dont use tire irons you bought from Princess Auto, or Irons big enough to work on a truck tire, buy the nice little motorcycle tire Irons, I use the Motion Pro 8.5" Part Number 08-0003 dont recommend this because the soap will dry and leave a residue, next time you go through deep water with low tire pressure you will have that soapy goo working on making your bead slippery again. There are special tire soap available that dont do this. When I need a little extra help I use WD40 it dissolves and leaves nothing behind, make sure you dont spray your brakes. But most of the time I dont require anything.
To break the bead, Im lazy I just remove the valve stem and take a quick ride to the end of the block and the tire is warm pliable and the bead is off:woohoo:
08-07-2009, 07:13 AM
thanks guy's but I wasent really looking for tire installation advice. I think I have all that figured out by now. OTG and Tom I use neither WD40 or soap. I use Windex and works great and dries after 10min.
I was just seeing if there is a few tires out of bunch that are typically defective in terms of the bead wall breaking.
tell you the truth im not too sad about this happening to this tire anyways' cause it looked stupid and skinny on the rim. So now I can spend money and buy a tire that looks right.
08-07-2009, 08:24 AM
Good idea with the windex, good for cleaning your goggles too:TTT:
Here is some more free unwanted advice (I got lots of these) Dont buy cheap tires.:)
I know you dont need the advice but I thought others might have some questions
So whats the new tire going to be??? Non DOT, Street. 50/50
08-07-2009, 10:20 AM
I had a Maxxis Maxxcross Dester IT before, XMIkeR recomended. They were non dot but impresive expecially for side grip (off center) over any DOT knobsi've had like the MT21 or D606. On the road you could not tell the differnce between any DOT knobies cause they are a bit stiffer sidewalls for the desert conditions.
The only problem is that it only lasted about 1500km on the rear. Thats partly my issue cause i ride very aggresive lately and the husky's horsepower just eats the knobs right off.
I'm contemplating the Maxxcross again cause the D606 only lasted me 700km's and the MT21 don't have the side traction I'm now used to.
08-07-2009, 10:46 AM
Â*Â*The only problem is that it only lasted about 1500km on the rear.Â*
I'm contemplating the Maxxcross again cause the D606 only lasted me 700km's and the MT21 don't have the side traction I'm now used to.Â*
i guess we will always have this problem ( tires not lasting long enough )
i am thinking i may put on a worn out tire for the start of my next longer trip
then switch to the new replacement when i hit the first gravel road.
Problem is what to do with the junker tire :(
i am surprised at the crack lines that developed in my rear MT21
not complaining just learning thats what tires are like.
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